Food for thought, taste, health, fashion or nutrition?
Brian Chatterton
Formula farming in retreat?
Formula farming came to continental Europe much later than to Australia or America. Nineteenth century science and technology were put together into farming formulas that were then used over vast areas of these continents. In Europe modern technology was used from an early period in some regions such as the Po valley of Italy and a great deal of Britain, but traditional systems persisted widely until the postwar period. Now most food is produced under the formula system. Black and white cattle dominate milk production. White pigs are for pork and ham. Half a dozen varieties account for virtually all of the wheat production. Intensive livestock systems based on grain are dominant, and cereals are produced with standard formulas of fertilizer and herbicide.
BSE (mad cow disease) has forced a re-examination of formula farming. The epidemic is explained at one level as an unfortunate accident compounded by bureaucratic incompetence and government cover up, but the underlying system of formula farming provided the environment for it to thrive. The formula developed from scientific research that showed calves and lambs grew faster if they were fed protected proteins that survive digestion in the rumen. Common protected proteins include meat and fish meal. These became standard parts of diets for the system of weaning calves. When the causal agent of BSE infected the meat meal, its spread was inevitable. The BSE epidemic has been severe in Britain, but it has affected all of Europe and is one of the reasons Europe is more cautious about GM crops and hormone fed beef than USA or Australia. Formula farming has provided cheap food but European consumers are looking for more.
Organic farming
Organic farming was the first alternative. It has a range of objectives but the original driving force was the belief that the chemicals being used in farming formulas would affect human health. DDT, BSE and all those other letter combinations have reinforced the organic position. The organic food market is increasing at an incredible rate and may accelerate even more if the Iceland supermarket chain in Britain is successful in its new market strategy. The chain believes that if it can increase the volume of trade, the price of organic fruit and vegetables would be the same as conventional food. It is consequently reducing its profit margins to bring the price down in the hope that volume will increase.
Animal welfare
The welfare of the animals used in farming has become an important political issue in the whole of Europe. Britain has been in the forefront of legislation, but the laws of the European Union are now becoming strict. British farmers and animal welfare groups have realized that the new regulations put their farmers at a competitive disadvantage, and if animal production moves off shore as a result they will have little opportunity to improve welfare. They have started a publicity campaign to turn the new rules into a positive attribute of British-grown food. Their first series of advertisements has been an attack on the low standards of welfare elsewhere and has received criticism from other countries who claim that these shock tactics will turn consumers into vegetarians rather than eaters of British meat. The campaign has certainly drawn attention to the issue, and the branding of products with a "good welfare" sticker has become a possibility.
Wildlife welfare
The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds has more members in Britain than all the political parties put together. Modern formula farming supported by subsidies has had a devastating effect on the population of farm birds and other wildlife. At present the main direction is to turn the European Union subsidies away from habitat destruction towards habitat enhancement. There has been no attempt yet to put "wildlife friendly" values directly into food, although it appears to be working reasonably well with timber that is labelled as coming forests that are sustainable and friendly to wildlife.
A fair deal for farmers and workers
This began with a few poorly packaged and labelled products from third world countries being sold in charity shops but has now moved into the mainstream with professionally marketed goods competing strongly on supermarket shelves. It produces better returns to third world farmers. Coffee was the first success story, and hundreds of other products now include South African wine as one of the most recent additions to the list.
Flavour
Formula farming cared much more about yield and the cost of production than about flavour. A growing movement in Europe attempts to revive some of the flavours that have almost disappeared as the formulas swept all before them. Rare breeds of cattle, sheep and pigs that were kept as curiosities and were on the edge of extinction are now being returned to commercial farming for their flavours. Old fruit varieties and grains such as farro are increasing in popularity.
Exclusivity
This is linked with flavour and is a continental European concept of tying certain foods to certain areas. The Anglo-Saxon countries have usually adopted a brand approach to marketing rather than the territorial one. The most famous of the territorial approach is the French wine district, but the concept works with a wide range of products from Parma ham to lentils. To work effectively the product must start with an image of quality, and officials must enforce the concept of territory. The limitations of supply and the resulting exclusive value enhances the price of the product.
Policy changes
After half a century of subsidizing the poorest quality products, the European Union has at last realized that this is the major cause of its budget problems and has decided in theory at least to change direction and assist quality rather than low grade bulk product. The Union is rather like a super tanker and difficult to change course, so it is unlikely that low quality products will suddenly have to fend for themselves. The new policy direction has yet to be translated into reality. While the concept of encouraging quality is good the introduction of an alternative system of subsidies will create a new level of market distortions that over time could be as bad as the old ones.
Consumer confusion
Food products already carry numerous symbols and kite marks as well as the nation of origin. There is considerable debate on how these can be simplified and explained to consumers but no sign of any effective action.
Brian Chatterton is the co-author of Discovering Oil: Tales from an Olive Grove in Umbria, an account of his experiences restoring an olive grove in the hills of Umbria. He formerly farmed in South Australia, where he was Minister of Agriculture during the 1970s.
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